the fall trends are trending, and what's new? anatomy!

   The text below describes this Nili Lotan cashmere sweater as a "cropped silhouette" which "hits at hip". I see it "hitting" at what would most likely be "above the hip" on me,  but who am I to fuss about such minor details? After all, if I don't consider my hip situation minor, who will? What I really don't get is why the word "streamlined" repeatedly crops up with reference to Nili. After the wrinkly caftan which I was told was meant to look like that, the droopy drawers which are again with us in an autumn iteration, and the floppy sweaters, I'm losing track of where the streamlining is. Somewhere in production, perhaps? Don't think I'd rely on J.Crew's sources to produce a "special open-stitch weave" that would last more than one wear. Oh, and yarns are spun, not sweaters, which are knitted or crocheted, not woven? A close look (zoom, zoom) shows that this sweater is in fact knitted. And I think it may have been hiked forward for the front view, downward for the back. Somewhere in-between may be a hip.  

Our women's design team fell in love with the streamlined silhouettes from this much-buzzed-about Israeliborn designer. Like all her creations, this sweater was carefully in the designer's intimate New York atelier. Spun from the most luxurious cashmere, it features a special open-stitch weave and so-right-now cropped silhouette. In a 7-gauge knit. Crewneck

Well, moving on. I also had a close look at the Moto Leather Tee. This is an example of something really interesting that could have been something great. I would have wanted set-in sleeves, not merely an extension of the body at the shoulder line, which in leather can peak up in an unflattering way. I also would have wanted to have the seam between leather top half and the knit bottom half be either quite a bit lower, or at what I will call the "high underarm". As it is, the seam is not at the best point for most women. Maybe that's a way of keeping it exclusive. I love the dark green color, but at this price ($495) they could have put a little more thought into the design, and could have provided more info on how it closes at the back neck.


Left, the Pony Cardigan, no. 48782. The sleeves and back are a wool knit, the front is Italian calf hair. It comes in navy. I would have loved this in the deep green! And for once, the Copywriter from Space was having a Personal Day. No complaints about the straightforward description. The website picture, which I shamelessly copied, shows what is either a fold with shadow, a slash pocket or a defect. I guess I'll vote for Option 1. The opening price is $650, so I doubt we'll be seeing this on the Trans-Canada Highway real soon.

Looking at skirts: I think that adding a mini to one's wardrobe at this stage would be a mistake. If you love how you look in minis, you probably have a lot. If you don't, this is not the time to start. Here is the two-toned circle skirt in felted wool. I didn't like it at 21" long, thought that was more of a skating skirt in an unsuitable fabric. However, since I first looked at it, it has grown longer!  It's now 24" long! So I think I'll try it on. Not sure about the preponderance of gathers over the stomach, this is not an area I try to maximize.

\

a long and lofty silhouette,

with gentle shirring at the waist
that keeps things fresh and

feminine. Featuring our favorite

detail of the moment: a two-tone

neutral palette that complements

the vibrant hues we're loving right

now.Felted wool. A-line shape.Sits

at waist. Straight waistband.Side zip.

Slant pockets. Fully lined. 24" long.

Part of J.Crew Collection. Import.

Dry clean. Available at jcrew.com

and the J.Crew Collection & Bridal

Boutique at 769 Madison Avenue, NY.

revised version above

An elegant nod to vintage in a long and lofty silhouette, with gentle shirring at the waist that keeps things fresh and feminine. Featuring our favorite detail of the moment: a two-tone neutral palette that complements the vibrant hues we're loving right now. Felted wool. A-line shape. Sits at waist. Straight waistband. Side-seam pockets. Fully lined. 21" long.

BOSS Orange

Helmut Lang

And while we're looking at skirts, just about everyone is doing a partially leather skirt this season. Adjoining, for instance, is BOSS Orange's version. Not bad. Michael Kors has a version, Helmut Lang is showing a leather and twill paneled mini, and J.Crew is showing a part wool, part leather skirt as well. The seam joining the leather and the wool doesn't look like it's at a great location for everyone, and I myself am too curvy to do well in wrap skirts, but it's said to be sold out. I remind myself that I own a number of items that were trumpeted as being so wonderful that everyone but me knew enough to grab them early. They come back.

J.Crew version

Lesson: think twice, buy once. Later.

Nili Lotan military jacket

I was bemused by the Nili Lotan off-center droopy drawers in the latest J.Crew catalog. Of course, I recognized them instantly as "dhoti pants," inspired by or copied from the men's garment called a dhoti, which is essentially a length of cloth wrapped around the waist, one end passed through the legs, pulled up, and tucked into the waistband. The dhoti is worn by men in central and southern India and in Bangladesh, as well as Nepal and Sri Lanka, often with an oxford shirt or a tunic called a kurta on top. Fashion dhoti pants are worn by women in western Europe, east and west coast United States, coastal Canada, and Mediterranean and Caribbean resorts, generally with a bra or tank top. Men who wear the dhoti often have a spiritual reason for keeping the central part of the body cool. Women
who wear dhoti pants have other reasons for being cool in other ways.

    
Having already sworn never to be seen in a romper (an easy promise to make!), I have extended this oath to the female dhoti. I have to hope, therefore, that by the time I am ready for DePends, some more flattering and convenient outer garment will have been invented.

That said, I was taken aback on today's dash through a J.Crew store, when I saw the most adorable little military jacket. This is another Nili Lotan piece, and is almost cute enough to earn forgiveness for the dhoti pants. It has a short standing collar, single-breasted, and terrific darts from the collar down to the tops of the chest pockets, making it look much more like a tailored "everywhere" piece than a "yardwork" toss-on. And I loved the fabric, cotton, soft, ridged, not quite a corduroy. AND THEN I SAW THE PRICE TAG. ARE THEY CRAZY? An entire village of men who wear real dhotis and their wives and children could eat for a year on the price of this jacket (especially if they are vegetarian). The jacket retails for $555. Before tax. Nuh-uh.