distracted by a hedgehog, fred almost misses the plane from Nice to Lyon. And some fashion notes.

un hérisson
I can't resist a hedgehog, I can't resist an owl, and I can't resist Hermès. So you won't be surprised to read that I was dragged on to the plane to Lyon kicking and muttering imprecations because the shop in the Nice airport wouldn't be open for another two hours - I accused himself of having planned this, and he had the nerve to look puzzled!
un hibou
un renard
And of course as we said goodbye to the Riviera, the sun finally deigned to show itself.

The day before was Sunday, and we drove to Cap d'Antibes for a dreamy lunch 
at a fish restaurant with the unlikely name of Bacon.
The Bacon family have been in the restaurant business since the 1500's, and they know how to keep customers happy. My starter was a raw seafood salad
I dove right in, and then I had Bourride, a local fish soup
and Himself had Bouillabaisse -- note Gallic version of lobster bib! --
with its accompaniments of aioli (garlic mayonnaise), garlic cloves and lightly toasted garlic bread.
You rub the garlic on the bread,
spread the aioli on top, and 
float your little creations in the soup til soggy. 
Heaven.

And the following morning, with due fanfare, off to the airport, direction Lyon.

So, Lyon: a few highlights for you, well, for me anyway --

the reflection of the local stock exchange (the Bourse),
 not straight on but reflected in the mirrored façade 
of the Monoprix across the street from it, and
the top story of the Bourse seen from the escalator 
to the second (third) story of the Monoprix.
Setting up for dinner at our favorite bouchon, Le Garet.
A butcher at the lovely market, Les Halles de Lyon, chopping beef by hand for boeuf tartare, it's better that way, the meat doesn't get slippery but stays fresh and delicious although this is something that shouldn't be prepared too far in advance.

chocolate shops, candy shops, pastry shops, fishmongers, poulterers, butchers, fancy greengrocers, and  plenty of places to grab lunch or breakfast, true to tradition Les Halles opens early and closes early.


My lunch at Les Halles began with a few snails, then grilled gambas (giant shrimp, 3 are more than ample). Oxymorons are one of my favorite lunch dishes, light and don't leave you too stuffed to enjoy dinner. About those snails, what most people like about snails is the part where you get to soak up the sizzling garlic butter with the bread. In Lyon, however, the predominant seasoning on the snails is parsley butter, so you actually do get the flavor of the little critters, which is delicate and fresh. Surprised?

Fashion note:
shameless display of travel weight bulges
recognize anything?

that blouse was a find! It also worked well with this jacket, bad lighting but you'll figure it out.

I found that blouse to be such a workhorse that when I got home I ordered another one! Unfortunately it was packed by someone whose last job was stuffing newspaper into wet boots, but I don't think the wrinkles are permanent.

For those of you who follow closely, that tweedy thing was not the jacket I originally planned to take, but this one weighed less, and I was at that stage of packing when every ounce had deep and significant meaning. The jacket is quite warm, being synthetic, and sadly can't be worn unless the shirt underneath has a collar to keep the fuzz off the neck. Nonetheless, it's quite well cut.

Tomorrow: those of you who sent dressing room photos will see them posted.

26 comments:

  1. I am always sad to see that view from the plane! I've spent 40 years in and out of everyone of those nooks and crannies, I never tire of the south of France and its rugged land and light.

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  2. I would love for the opportunity to visit the south of France - the scenery must have been magical! And that bouillabaisse looks mouth-watering!

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    1. It's hard to be unhappy there, Lisa, start planning.

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  3. You've certainly been "well-fed" on this trip.Loved it all except for the snails - can't bear the little varmints. I like your tweedy jacket.

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    1. I like the snails in France better than the snails elsewhere, they seem to know how to raise them. Jacket is a J.Crew popback.

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  4. What beautiful food! And all those little food shops...

    Is that the Wind Creatures sweater? The other tweed was the vintage one-- is this one new? I was in NYC last week for a few days and don't have the nerve to enter Hermes. Easily intimidated, I guess.

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    1. Hi, Lane, yes, I got the two of them, ordered the cardigan a size larger so that I could wear it in my real life, when the CFS said it was slim-cut and cropped, she was right. Imagine that.

      No intimidation here, the friendliest Hermes is in Lyon, where they once dragged us in from the street and served us tea and cookies in honor of - who knows? I was non-plussed. Getting attention in any store can be a challenge as holiday shopping draws near.

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  5. Beautiful, I've never been there and would love to, same with the gastronomic delights you've been engaged. I'm uncertain about the blouse but that is the Creatures of the Wind broken stripe cardi and the J.Crew Multicolor Tweed jacket. I have both. ;) Ha, we have a few in common fashion-wise, including that linen slicker worn in my post.

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    1. The blouse - which did not photograph well - is the Madewell Silk Colorblock blouse, and what a workhorse it is! You should get it, it goes with the cardi and the jacket and a bunch of other stuff. I am considering picking up a second one.

      Love my linen slicker, love my navy wool/cash icon trench.

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  6. Those snails! Now I'm starving!
    Love the Hermes windows. We went to a Hermes at CDG, bought two ties for MrBP. I didn't even look at the scarves as I was busy clutching my new handbag.
    How did your house hold up during the storm, have you been out there yet?
    Happy you are back safe and sound.

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    1. I'm not much for knick-knacks, but I would have bought those little guys in a minute had the shop been open. Or at least I would have asked the prices.

      Surprisingly and fortunately, the house seems ok, and thanks. We dashed out and back for a quick look, will have a longer inspection this weekend. Now just dealing with travel fatigue.

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  7. Hey Fred - Anthro has some fabulous little owl ornaments for the holidays.

    Looks amazing, I had a moment like that on a trip where I kept going buy a bloody Paris shop that refused to be open!!

    Anxious to hear bout London. I love London!

    Glad the house is well!

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    1. thanks, WMM, London report coming soon!

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  8. The meal at Cap d'Antibes looks incredibly delicious. The fish soup that you had is one of my favorites. Thanks for letting us all live vicariously through your wonderful trip.

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  9. WFF, smiling that the markets open early but not the Hermes shop - food before fashion. In addition to the Anthro ornaments WMM notes, our national book shop up here is all woo-hoo with simple white glazed and unglazed ceramic owl bookends, salt & pepper shakers etc. Sorry last-minute project put paid to JC photo call. And mille merci for letting us live France vicariously.

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    1. hi, GetFresh, now that I've started looking, I'm seeing owls everywhere! so I thought I might look for a nice rabbit, friendly but not too cute. Or not.

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    2. BUNNY SHOP I can't have anything lapin, for me too Peter. And the DH will discuss rabbit red wine stew, pies etc., fixtures of his childhood and much better than steak & kidney, I'm assured. But good idea to find an alternative non-dog or owl creature this season.

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  10. I hate that (when the airport stores are closed and you have to embark, they should be open 24/7 or at least from 6 am to midnight)!
    I recognized the sweater but not the blouse, must refresh my JCrew Pro level 3.
    I love snails, the weirdest that I ever eat were in a smakl seaside town in Portugal. They were served raw with sale and I swear some were moving!

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    1. I meant salt, my Italian slipped in the sentence. How weird!
      Hope you like the elk tee BTW!

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    2. hi, Ema, I vaguely remember early morning, or maybe it was v. late night, shopping at the Frankfurt airport, but unfortunately it was in the days before I had any money. The Gucci floral scarf on black background sticks in my mind from that trip.

      so my "back-up" Madewell colorblock silk blouse arrived yesterday, rolled up and smooshed into a small plastic bag. I think the wrinkles will hang out. Sad to see Madewell getting so sloppy.

      the elk isn't here yet, still waiting.

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  11. I was in Lyon last year and loved it!

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  12. Love your Creatures of the Wind sweater and the tweed jacket!

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    1. I actually bought the pullover as well, love them as a twinset, but was delighted to find that the cardi works with a lot of stuff by itself. And to my surprise, I think I'll get a lot of use put of the little pullover as, say, a tee under jacket, with jeans. Who'd 'a thunk it?

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